Devotees from all over come bearing kavadi, a physical burden through which they implore help from Murugan, which can vary in content - at the simplest (thus earning less merit) a pot of milk can be carried; mortification of the flesh is also common, and the greater the pain, the more god-earned merit is considered to be received.
The Tamil community cannot be considered a majority in Malaysia. But that doesn't mean devotees can be considered lacking - the Hindu temple at Batu Caves, near Kuala Lumpur, receives well over one million, alongside tens of thousands of tourists, every year. Technically, the true day of Thaipusam is, in 2012, the 7th of February, but celebrations started from Sunday, and accompanied by Mya and Lisa, I reached Batu at just before midnight on the 6th.
There aren't really words to describe Thaipusam. The smell of incense is heady, alongside the flower wreaths wrapped around people's necks and hanging off stalls. The air is filled with the steady beat of drums and the irritating call of the vuvuzela; sweat literally drips down your back (threatening the gorgeous henna) as you are forced to stop and wait, the Kavadi Attam dance taking place at any moment, in any place.
Frankly, the devotees look like they could drop at any moment. Some of them actually do, with their family surrounding them in support, blood dripping from their mouths, painting their tongues red due to the new (and rather savage) piercings reminding them of their God. Barbers line the streets, shaving all and sundry; ornate canopies known as vel kavadi are carried, some reaching two metres in height, with family members bringing along seats to allow rest - necessary considering the rather terrifying moment I thought I was about to be crushed to death as a devotee staggered towards me, tipping on his side.It's intense. It's quite easy to get dragged into the fervour, adults and children chanting (admittedly I thought they were saying Ben 10 for a while, but apparently not), people shoving forwards in an attempt to reach the temple. We never did actually, Mya's claustrophobia and the fact it took us half an hour to move about 30 metres curbing our enthusiasm.
But the experience itself was utterly amazing. I have such admiration for the strength that's shown - literally, with ropes attached to hooks in their backs, some drag along family members, appearing to be in a trance, pain apparently not felt due to protection by spiritual and mental endurance. Having that kind of mental strength...I have enough trouble forcing myself to keep running in the morning, let along walking for eight hours with that kind of kavadi.
The insanity that is Thaipusam scares even it's inhabitants, with various people having warned me away from attending it at Batu Caves. And I admit, I reckon attending during the day tomorrow (well, technically today) would probably have ended in utter chaos; but wreathed in moonlight, the festival of Thaipusam is full of savage beauty which can be fully appreciated without fear (except maybe for your bags).
Emily
